Shirt and Blouse Collars
Your Best First Impression: Shirt and Blouse Collars |
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by Alexander S. Kabbaz & Joelle M. Kelly, Master Shirtmakers Copyright © 2003-2017 AK/JK, All Rights Reserved |
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That collar you love so much - you know the one I mean. The one you saw on that model in the fashion mag. Wasn't it simply gorgeous? The absolutely perfect design. You couldn't wait to go to the store and get some ... or send the picture to your shirt maker. You're right! It was perfect. Perfect on the svelte 20-something wearing the perfectly coordinated wardrobe with their perfectly done hair and makeup perfectly photographed to ... make you love the collar. Does that in any way, shape, or form mean the style is right for you? | ||
Recently I penned an article which offered an in-depth discussion of the preferred philosophy of a true bespoke artisan. It is time to get down to some specifics in the arena of blouses and shirts. This isn't so much about how perfectly they're made. What's important is whether it's perfect for you! So unless you're that svelte 20-something with your wardrobe consultant at the ready, read on.
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Range of Collar Spreads |
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Preference - and work environment - are the key considerations in the arena of collar style. Collar Style |
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Collar Details Height |
Special Collars |
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Collar Stitching Edge-stitched topstitching versus quarter-inch topstitching. Although the quarter-inch is the more traditional, edge-stitching blends into rather than breaking up the flat surface of the collar and cuffs. Therefore, this look tends to be "cleaner" in appearance. Personally, I prefer this clean look. There are also physical ramifications. The collar stays in a quarter topstitched collar cannot be inserted all the way to the collar point as they can with edge-stitching. Hence, if the collar point presses against your collarbone, it may tend to bend up at the end. Ugh! On the contrary side, there is 1/2" more loose cloth with the edge-stitched style. When ironing this style the tendency for the fabric to bunch up and cause a wrinkle at the edge of collar, cuffs, or center placket is greater. Finally, edge-stitching is harder to sew and therefore generally avoided - or poorly executed - by most makers. A Collar's Tie-Space "Tie-Space" is the space made when the collar leaves do not meet at the center front. Quite simply, this is space left by the shirtmaker to make room for the tie knot. Obviously, because the spread of points in a spread collar already leaves adequate space for most tie knots, this is not an issue with spreads. Close point collars, however, either need to be worn with a very narrow tie knot - note the photo of Tom Wolfe - or need to have space where they meet in front. As you can see, the moderately spread Dan Rather collar fits the tie knot adequately. |
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In the first set of diagrams, collars 1 through 6 are all made without tie space. In the Special Collars diagram, the Brooks-type button down, the eyelet, and the tab collars all have about one-half inch of tie-space. | ||
In summation, the biggest constraint regarding men's dress collars is that it is expected they will be worn with a necktie. Men's collars can exhibit none of the spontaneity or variety of business dress acceptable for the distaff. They must be constructed so as to properly accommodate the tie knot. Sorry guys ... point spread, height, and tie space are your basic options. Be jealous. Those are the breaks. | ||
The "Correct Collar" Rules - Women: "Would that I had the freedom to wear the variety of collar styles women can wear to business", bemoaned Alexander. "Yes", replied Joelle, "that can be arranged ... as soon as you learn to bear children." The simple fact is that a necktie for a woman isn't only not expected, it is a rarity. The vast majority of women wear their collars open, even with a business suit. As J.C. Leyendecker drew so beautifully, women can wear most of the same collars as men. |
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Just as with men, preference - and work environment - are the key considerations in the arena of collar style. In other words, many fewer rules. Women have a myriad of collar options not available to men. Here are a couple: The key here is button placement. Too high and the lapels do not lay nicely. Too low and the "peek-a-boo" effect distracts the eyes and ruins the look. |
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The Band Collar Ideal for a more formal style and perfect for the woman with a longer neck, the Band Collar frames the face as if it were artfully set upon a pedestal. Adorning a frilly blouse, a band collar can be extremely soft and feminine. By contrast, topping a plainer shirt, the band collar appears bolder and more decisive. |
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The "Man-Tailored" Collar Naturally, almost all of the "men's" collars shown above are equally suitable for women. Although usually worn open, they can also be worn closed with a tie or slim scarf. In the photo, shown with a suit jacket, is a typical man-tailored collar. Shorter points are used to remain in proportion to height. Often the woman's version of a man's collar is made softer and tends to lay less flat. This softness is essential for the next option as a stiff collar is not easily "flippable". Unavailable to men wearing a tie - but rather attractive when used to frame the face inside usually longer hair - is the option to flip the collar up and wear it in a more casual manner. |
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Beyond these examples, designing blouses for women gives the creator a much wider range of possibilities. The main reason for this is that accommodating a necktie is optional. That is not to say long, narrow, pointed pieces of cloth are unattractive. Here, as just one example of the creativity which can be employed without the restriction that the neck button need be closed, is a blouse and scarf combined into one garment. Thus the range of available collar styles for women is limited only by the imagination of the designer and the suitability for their intended purpose. Although there are many other collar styles available to the distaff, we have concentrated here on those which are most appropriate for wearing with suits in a business environment. In future articles we shall illustrate some of the other options such as the shawl collar and collarless blouses with scoop, boat, or v- necks. |
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As always, thank you for reading. We always appreciate your comments so please don't hesitate to write with your thoughts or questions. |
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