Women's Shirts and Blouses
Women's Shirts and Blouses - Ready Made & Custom
Caveat Emptor - Women's Shirts and Blousesby Alexander Kabbaz, Master Shirtmaker |
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They peer through the window trying to take a measure of our studio. Some turn away. Others hesitate yet overcome fear and enter. Invariably they ask, "Do you make shirts and blouses for women?", obviously hoping for an easy exit after the expected, "I'm sorry, we don't." Yes, I'm describing our typical new woman custom blouse client. Her most frequent lament is, "I've wanted to have my shirts and blouses custom made for years, but I have no idea at all how to tell you what I want." Funny...I can always see those words coming. They follow directly every new lady client's first words, "Let me see your styles." |
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Am I striking some responsive chords here? If so, you're not unlike the vast majority of our clients. Why? That's wonderful...until the designer goes through his seven year metamorphosis, lowers his quality to increase profits, or changes her styling to "keep closer in touch with today's trends". The designer's clientele is expected to ignore the fact that her garments are marked up more than 1500% above cost. And to ignore the fact that bust measure, as the sole criteria around which to size an entire shirt or blouse, makes as much sense as trying to determine your height by your hat size. In return for ignoring all this, the client is allowed the privilege of paying a fortune for mass-market quality - which often bears not only scant relation to what she sought in the first place ... but often showcases the offending designer's logo emblazoned on the front of the blouse. Are we seeing polo ponies here? It's no small wonder she's unsure of herself when she first steps into our studio! |
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Although I wrote this article based upon the custom work we do, the ideas expressed apply equally well to shirts purchased "off-the-rack". If they don't fit properly - and due to their construction your alterations tailor will be unable to make the necessary adjustments, don't invest. You wouldn't buy a stock that doesn't mesh with your portfolio goals. Don't saddle your wardrobe with useless items. Keep looking. Better yet, find a local tailor or dressmaker who can either create anew or alter properly. Or you could call us ... but that's a completely different scenario. | ||
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Permit me to set your fears to rest once and for all. It's not essential for you to tell me what you want. It's up to me to find out. |
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So ... how do you tell a custom maker or boutique saleperson what you want? Permit me to set your fears to rest once and for all. It's not essential for you to tell me what you want. It's up to me to find out. We've decades of experience and know what questions need to be asked; what concerns addressed. Our initial conversation will lead us toward the desired styling. Combining favored elements from garments already in your wardrobe and styles in our vast repertoire will take us further. Perhaps you've seen some new idea in a store or recent fashion magazine which appeals to you. Going shopping? Bring pictures. Bring your favorite blouses. Be prepared to show your salesperson what you want. A pocket from this one. The sleeve style of that one. This collar. That front style. |
Women's Custom Made Shirts have been around for a very long time! |
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In any case, a careful and considered combination of our mutual ideas will result in the first try-on model. From this first model, we'll build, change, add, subtract and rethink to elicit further models until an optimum pattern is achieved. In pleasant contrast to the frustrating search from shop to shop through row after row of ready-made clothing is the statement made by most new clients after we've begun to work together. "I'm so happy that I found your shop! It was ever so much easier than I'd imagined." |
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Getting Started ... On To Specifics: | ||
In our Overview of custom-made ladies shirts and blouses we spoke in generalities concerning our methods. Now it's time, whether custom or ready-made, to consider specific details. STYLING: |
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Having established these basics, we begin to specify each ingredient of the blouse. Rather than what could be a multi-volume treatise expounding on the features of each design detail, we present instead a listing of options. A careful study should enable you to select from each area for your first Basic Pattern. Some of the style details are entities unto themselves; most just general titles under which fall many varieties. If you keep in mind the words, "to name but a few of the many options available', you'll compensate for this writer's lack of space. |
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Made-For-You Try-On Samples and Fittings are Essential |
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Collars |
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Pockets |
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Sleeves |
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More ideas... Popular designs ofttimes commissioned include riding or show shirts, shirtdresses, tennis & golf shirts & skirts, safari shirts, doctor's & lab coats, pajamas, robes, karate and judo uniforms. Accessories One of the main attributes of custom made clothing is the ability to order coordinated accessories. These include matching scarves, ties, belts, pocket squares and handkerchiefs in various sizes. |
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FABRIC SELECTION:
The decision of which of our thousands of available fabrics you'll want to try first... and in which of your styles... can be a great deal of fun if sensibly approached. You'll need to determine the following for each top:
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FABRIC TYPES: Cool, Comfortable, Classic Cotton |
Sarah is wearing a cashmere shirt-jacket with lambskin trim |
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In order to better understand how the process of having custom blouses made works, following is our method. Makers differ in their processes, but if your selected artisan doesn't include most of the steps below, rethink your choice. | ||
The Kabbaz-Kelly Method Designing Your Basic Pattern |
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Perhaps designing is the wrong term. Planning and building for the future would be a more apt description. We usually create a Basic Pattern of moderate fullness in what is called the "man-tailored" style. The front closure will be normal, the shirt will have cuffed sleeves, and there will be a collar band. |
Once your basic "tops" pattern has been created, departures such as robes, pajamas, and other shirt-weight garments is simple. |
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1 On your first visit, we'll chat for a while in order that I might gain a proper sense of your requirements. We'll discuss styling, fullness and drape while I take some 35 measurements and notes. 2 Later, I'll design, strike, and cut your individual pattern. This will incorporate the basic fit we discussed and is the springboard from which we'll develop other styles. I'll use this pattern to cut, stitch, and launder an initial sample which tests our ideas and my measures. 3 A week after your first visit we'll meet for you to try-on this sample. I'll pin-fit while we discuss how well I captured your desires. Then I shall alter the pattern to reflect our further discussion and pin fitting. It is important to know that this sample is not one you keep. It is used only for testing your pattern and is eventually donated to charity. |
4. If the test was reasonably correct, we'll craft your first style pattern. If you need more than one style, we'll create a pattern and cut a cotton try-on shirt for each. You will be asked to wear this at home, have it washed by your usual launderer, and come in to show me the results when I'll make final notations. If the adjustments are more than minute, we'll repeat this step. Again, unless by chance these are perfect, they will be donated to charity. |
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Your pattern is then permanently kept on file. Before you place a subsequent order, I'd prefer to see you in at least one shirt or blouse of each style. Over time, fine fabrics tend to shape and adapt themselves to the wearer. Only after this has been fully accomplished can I make the final little nips and tucks in your pattern. Nipping & tucking, by the way, remain an ongoing process. After all, our only advertising is the answer you give to the question, "Where did you get that blouse?" |
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WANT TO KNOW MORE? Just click the Contact Link. Ask your questions and I'll be happy to answer. |
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